Kingman AZ; Rte 66 and so much more

27 Apr, 2018; Kingman, AZ

Yes, they paved the cow path (sort of)


Apparently, the original pioneers moving west called the Northern route through Arizona ‘the 35th parallel road’.  This trail was a daunting path between water points and could involve violence or trade with local native Indians (depending on the political climate of the moment). 

Then, the road evolved into the ‘Beale Wagon Road’ a better road as miners moved into the area to extract the vast turquoise, silver and gold found in the nearby mountains. 

Finally, the road was renamed Route 66 and became a major route in the great depression for refugees fleeing the mid-west to California.  Think John Steinbeck’s ‘Grapes of Wrath’.  200,000 people moving west through the desert on bad roads, with breaking down cars (EMF’s = Every morning fix-its), not much money, and hungry children.  But, when they got to the California border, they found signs telling them they weren’t welcome and to turn back.  It is estimated that only 8% stayed; within a few years, most of the rest returned to the mid-west.

It wasn’t until the prosperity after WWII in the 50’s and 60’s, that Route 66 became a primo tourist route from Chicago to L.A.  A railroad runs along the route.  Finally, Interstate 40 replaced Route 66 and most of the towns along it’s Arizona length have struggled to remain relevant – lots of ghost towns with a few sections maintained for tourists.




Kingman is in the middle of the longest remaining original section of Hwy 66 (159 miles)!!


Kingman is a great base camp for day trips to a lot of cool places in the area.  There is a cute historic downtown with some original buildings, a number of kitchy Route 66 themed places, a decent museum and, a Route 66 Museum at the Visitor Center. 




A quirky inclusion in the Visitor Center is an electric car exhibit!   I was interested in the different types of steering wheels. In addition to the normal round steering wheel, some cars had a stick (kind of like the steering on a wagon).


Old ones


Experimental new ones

Cute ones


So many tiny cars!


Even Willie Nelson's Rolls Royc themed Golf cart 


Color me surprised!!


A street named ‘Andy Devine’ and a big display in the museum should have clued me in – but I didn’t connect with the name until I saw his photo.  Oh – that’s Andy Devine!! He was born in Flagstaff, but spent his childhood in Kingman – so they claim him!  You would recognize his face and would know him for his odd wheezing voice (the result of a childhood accident).


NBC photo by Paul Bailey



He appeared in over 400 films as a character actor, he moved with ease from ‘B’ westerns to ‘A’ pictures.  He played ‘Cookie’ in films with Roy Rogers; was in several movies with John Wayne, including ‘Stagecoach’ and ‘Island in the Sky’.

Humans are melting; but the desert is blooming!

27 Apr, 2018; SKP North Ranch RV, Congress AZ


I'm so glad I'm still in Arizona as the cactus bloom!


The wildflowers, cactus, shrubs, and trees are all in bloom!  While my allergies aren't happy, it's a glorious sight.


Bird of Paradise


Ocotillo

I love how transparent these prickly pear blossoms are.



If you look carefully, you'll see a hummingbird on the top Ocotillo blossom!


















How hot is it?


15F over normal hot.  High 90's (37C plus) - today 102!  That means all the door handles to businesses are covered with foam, neoprene, knitted covers, etc.  I saw a woman carrying a puppy in a parking lot yesterday.  At first I was a bit judgy about dogs getting carried - but then I thought about heat on the pavement. I checked with the temp gauge I use to check wheel hubs and WOW - that dog mom was right.  It was over 145F!! (63C)




Some of the year-round residents at Rovers Roost Co-op told me that they don't use their hot water heaters in the summer.  I found out why this week.  The water coming into the trailer was pre-heated in the hose.  It was tepid early in the morning and late at night - but during the day it was almost hot enough to make tea!!

Much as I love seeing all the cactus in bloom, I'm very, very appreciative of the air-conditioning in my trailer!

Casa Grande Ruins

26 April, 2018; SKP North Ranch RV Park, Congress AZ


Named 'Casa Grande' by a Spanish Jesuit Priest in the mid-1400's


The main structure in this large community reached 4 stories in the inner structure.  The Casa Grande community was at one end of an agricultural area that spanned hundreds of miles.  Precious water reached the crops through a sophisticated network of hundreds of miles of canals.  The canals were dug and maintained with only wood and stone tools.


The main structure is now protected by a roof.

Most of the dwellings and structures are melting into the desert - the caliche stone/clay structures did well to stand over a thousand years.  Very little of the entire monument is accessible to the public.  But, the ruins themselves were not as interesting to me as the exhibits in the visitor center.  They have a pretty impressive collection of pottery and artifacts from the community.  Also, the history and accomplishments of these Ancestral People of the Sonoran Desert was very interesting.  

The site is sacred to the native people who live in the region.  


Slowly melting into the desert




Even the birds are over-achieving architects here!




Saguaro bird condominium

Wupatki National Monument

19 Apr, 2018; Flagstaff, AZ


Wupatki Pueblo is the largest dwelling in a vast farming community - a 1,000 years ago!


Wupatki is an impressive, multi-story dwelling that incorporated the natural rock outcroppings.  The dwelling contained over 100 rooms for storage, sleeping and ceremonial use.  A large circular 'community room' and another large circular area for athletic games show that the pueblo was the center of community life for the region. 

I'm always impressed with the skill and artistry of the builders.  In some areas, the narrow slabs of limestone and sandstone are alternated with layers of much thicker and darker basalt - giving the walls a distinct decorative appeal.


From the Pueblo, one can see the spectacular Painted Desert in the distance


The Pueblo is partially excavated and minimally restored.


The large community center circle can be seen in the foreground


Here, one can see how the natural stone is incorporated as walls as the pueblo is built around and on the rock.


The rock is a combination of sandstone, limestone, and basalt blocks set with a clay-based mortar.




Lomaki Pueblo


We also visited nearby Lomaki Pueblo.  Lomaki is a series of dwellings perched atop a Box Canyon, or earth crack (a weird name but perfectly descriptive of this dry, deep canyon).




Farmers here practiced dry farming.  There was no natural stream; instead they collected rain water in the canyon with a dam and stored water in large clay jars.  When necessary, they would travel over 10 miles to collect water from the little Colorado River.  




The emerging Sunset Volcano was very active during this period.  The pumice covering the ground likely helped farming as it's porosity helped retain the limited moisture from snow/rainfall.


The dwellings had 'patios' that served as community work-areas and were constructed to protect from the prevailing winds, offering shade/sun.  They often ran right up to the edge of the rock face - I couldn't help wondering how they kept their toddlers from falling off into the canyon!


The impressive San Francisco Peaks in the distance.

A walk in Red Rock country always makes me happy!!

18 Apr, 2018; Flagstaff AZ


Sedona, AZ is surrounded by my favorite deep rust red rock cliffs.


Julie finds us a trailhead just south of Sedona with a big multi-use trail system wandering through red-rock country.  The 3,000' elevation drop has also made it quite a bit warmer than our campsite (leaving the fleece shirt and vest in the truck; wishing I'd worn shorts!).




These shots really don't do justice to the colors.  I really enjoyed the walk; lots of folks were out (we got the last parking space at the trailhead) - lots of mountain bikers and walkers with dogs.  Since this wasn't a NP, dogs were allowed on the trails as long as they were leashed.








A small chapel built into the wall - gives a sense of scale.






I wish I'd gotten a better pic of Julie and Scruffy.  Scruffy is a great hiker dog - but at just a bit over 7 pounds with maybe 8" legs, he does require a 'dog carry' occasionally; especially when it gets hot.



Explosive effects of changing elevation

17 Apr, 2018;  Flagstaff AZ


Another day; another cleanup!


Walking into the trailer after a travel day always causes a bit of trepidation.  Will a cupboard door have been jostled open, spewing it's contents all over the floor?  Will the paper towel have decided to unroll itself?   The first day I got here, I reached into an overhead cupboard to get something and noticed that it was all sticky.  Hmmmm . . . . it shouldn't be sticky.

I pulled out two stacking baskets where I keep a lot of small desk/office misc (the type of stuff you'd keep in the top middle drawer of a desk).  I found that I had, very uncharacteristically, put away a small plastic jar of Elmers Glue without slipping it into a zip-loc bag first.  That was problem #1; problem #2 was that it was apparently very, very old and the change in elevation had caused the dried, brittle plastic jar to shatter (or crumple, or otherwise cease to resemble a container whose main job is 'to contain').  





Glue had seeped out, soaking everything on one end of the top basket, then flowed into the bottom basket and soaked everything, and finally flowed onto the bottom of the cupboard!


If only they had been solid on the sides!

Everything came out onto newspaper spread on my dinette as I tried to clean up before the glue set.  Fortunately, nothing was ruined.  I got all the glue out of the cupboard, most of the small stuff was in zip-loc bags - so only the bags were a loss.  A deck of 3x5 cards got glued along one edge (so now they're bound but can still be pulled apart). 




And then, when I went to make dinner . . . .


I found that my plastic jar of canola oil had leaked.  Fortunately, it was in one of the  tubs I keep all my food in - so, only spilled into the bottom of the tub.  A quick wipe down of all the other condiments, liquid foodstuffs,  and the tub itself put everything to rights again.  


The last couple of days, I've been very cautious every time I opened anything - Will that club soda spray the ceiling?  will my toothpaste shoot out like a paper snake in a can?  Will my fountain pen leak ink all over my fingers?


Out of the fry pan; into the deep freeze

16 Apr, 2018;  Flagstaff, AZ


Amazing how much difference a few thousand feet of elevation can make!


Casa Grande was getting a wee bit warm (high: 100F/ 37C; low: 74F/23C) so, for the 2wks I have to wait for my permanent crown, I decided to explore the area around Flagstaff/Sedona.  My campsite turns out to be at 7018'!!  Along with very gusty winds, the low temps have been below freezing (like 22F/-5.5C).  A lot cooler than I had anticipated but the days are OK when the wind isn't too high.


Winter Visitors are leaving Rover's Roost RV Coop


Lots are freeing up and units are going into storage mode even as the spring bloom prepare to explode.  I've said my temporary goodbye's to my friends who have made their departures and prepared for my own move.


One of the mow many empty lots


Car, covered for the season.


These lawn ornaments look as forlorn as I feel

I could start feeling lonely, but then the spring bloom is so cheerful!


Just starting to bloom!





Even the long row of Oleanders (pink and white) are bursting with color.


My new site (at over 7,000') is quite different


Big pine trees with not a lot of undergrowth makes for fine camping.  I met up with my friend Julie (and Scruffy) in a dispersed camping area between Sedona and Flagstaff in the Coconino NF.  Specifically, FS Rd 535 off highway 89a.  There is a lot of dispersed camping along here and N of Flagstaff - a good thing to remember for summer camping.


Even here, spring has arrived in the shape of lots of tiny alpine flowers.


By lucky coincidence, pointed so that the wind doesn't hit me broadside

Lots of bones around - elk?

Shopping in Flagstaff; great red rock walks near Sedona, and free camping.  What's not to like?